Friday 14th April, the Rotunda car park.
The mist swirling …. we thought we had the wrong date …until … a bright orange Ford Ranger swung into the parking area in spectacular fashion, festooned with recovery gear of every description.
We realized we were in fact in the right place! Perhaps a little under-equipped but alas, the off road store was closed! We would just have to make do.
It was once again the start of a Lesotho trip for the Midlands 4x4 Club. In the next few minutes the convoy started drifting in … all except our fearless leader who had the essential indemnity forms to be signed by all and sundry. Eventually Richard and Heather arrived in the “Marriott-Hotel-on-Wheels” and all the necessary documents were completed.
Under Ronnie and Gary P’s able direction the convoy left with lights a-blazing … destination Underberg. En route the mist lifted thankfully and the sun emerged. We were greeted by a magnificent autumn day. After a quick coffee stop and last refuel at Underberg we continued towards Swartberg and onto the first dirt road en route to Rama’s gate.
An early drama on this trip necessitated a diversion for Ronnie, Gary P, Darryl and Johnno to Matatiele for some much needed spare parts. The rest continued up the escarpment to the border-post and after pleasant formalities on both sides, we were in Lesotho. A reasonably cobbled road led us on to our first stop – Sehlabathebe National Park. We all stopped at the newly built admin offices and registration was straightforward and efficient.
By now the weather was changing with threatening black storm clouds swirling above and the temperature dropping. With increasing wind amongst the peaks we set off along the winding road to the campsite.
After traveling in convoy through some beautiful mountain sandstone scenery and dropping into the Sehlabathebe Valley, surrounded by imposing buttresses and peaks, we found ourselves in a well watered, grassy but exposed campsite. Our first night stop on the trip. Everyone picked their preferred spot and at this stage the wind increased, the mist rolled down and a cold drizzle enveloped us.
It was interesting to notice how we all differ in our choice of camp setup, but within a short period fortunately everyone was hunkered down for the night. Gary and Ronnie, Darryl and Johno thankfully arrived from Matatiele with good news on having found the spares they needed. The more optimistic people in the party lit a braai fire. Of course, at this stage of the trip it must be said that Richard and Heather in the “Marriott-Hotel-on-Wheels” were the most comfortable and well prepared for the elements! Well done to them!
The before-mentioned Ranger unfolded in a most impressive way and it became obvious that no expense had been spared on handy gadgets. In fact, it was rumoured that there was a small 2-man helicopter stowed under the canopy for emergencies, in addition to all the camping paraphernalia that one can imagine. Well done Zandy and Jan. Impressive. A very nice rig!
A brief time was spent in the swirling mist trying to enjoy some bonding around the braai fire. However, apart from a few die-hards (Otto in his shorts and T-shirt!) and Ronnie, the rest took shelter from the wind chill factor and made their own arrangements for comfort and entertainment.
It was not long before the camp was in darkness and apart from the sound of the occasional jackal cry, all was quiet. You have to understand that the nightlife in Sehlabathebe is limited! Uncle Ronnie and Otto, the die-hards at the campfire in a force 10 gale eventually conceded that bed / tent was in fact the place to be.
The next morning dawned in typical Lesotho fashion. 0 degrees indicated with a wind chill factor of minus horrible! Thick mists and ghostly shapes of cattle and horses surrounded us. Lights came on and one by one, with the normal grunting and slamming of drawers and boxes, we all gathered to enjoy the day that lay ahead. There was a heavy dew which soon thankfully was broken by sunlight piercing through the scudding clouds. The Matabeng Pass lay ahead.
After a hasty breakfast, mainly of the instant variety, and a gathering of the troops, a motley convoy was formed, led by Ronnie and Gary P in the newly repaired Pajero. As we left back up the winding road, the sun and blue sky emerged with the promise of another lovely day in the spectacular mountain kingdom.
Shortly after Shelabathebe we turned right, crossed a small river and as the track became progressively rougher and rockier we knew we were starting up the fabled Matabeng Pass.
There were a number of very washed out river crossings to negotiate with loose rocks and narrow passage and low ratio was advised by Ronnie at the head of the column. Some people still insisted they were in 4 high at this stage!
The Natal side of the Matabeng took us up through some spectacular rock strewn windy tracks, getting steeper and steeper with spectacular views of blue sky and white cloud rolling in. Tight hairpin bends and switchbacks with breathtaking vistas. Nearing the summit the temperatures experienced during the night were borne out by icicles in the shadows on the rock walls of the pass. Pausing at the top, we marveled at the views into Lesotho and gathered ourselves for the descent!
The loose rutted track wound itself steeply down into the Senqu Valley. There appeared to have been some major storms in the valley recently as sections of the road were severely washed out and small streambeds were filled with large boulders brought down by flash floods. We came across the first of remote villages with an almost medieval feel to them. Stone huts / shelters covered with sparse thatch and shepherds on the roadsides with their large shaggy dogs. Life is very hard here and it was sobering to see how people can make do with so little. We found the Lesotho people to be very hospitable and welcoming.
Nearing the base of the pass we came across a number of young shepherds plunge dipping their sheep. They were friendly and engaging, allowing us to photograph them as they went about their task. We traded some hot cross buns with the youngsters and they were delighted to pose for some photos.
Towards midday the convoy of 9 vehicles assembled on the banks of the Senqu River at Philip’s camp. A beautifully shaded spot on the banks of the river. Chairs were unpacked and we enjoyed a picnic lunch. The road to Mount Moorosi lay ahead of us – our next night stop. From Philip’s camp onwards the road improved to well used gravel with many valleys and more switchbacks. We passed through numerous small villages and care had to be taken to avoid goats, chooks, sheep, donkeys and pedestrians!
We reached the intersection of the Qacha’s Nek / Mount Moorosi road as shadows were lengthening and the push was on to make the Mt Moorosi campsite before dark. This would be difficult. Fortunately from here on it was a windy tar road but caution was necessary as road signs in Lesotho do not last long (they make excellent roofing material!) Numerous steep descents and hairpin bends had to be negotiated and by now it was quite dark. Armco barriers are not high on the list of priorities in Lesotho either and several wrecks were seen strewn down the mountainside. After a somewhat harrowing trip where we kept in contact with intermittent radio signal, we all caught up with Gary and Ronnie at the turnoff to Mt Moorosi camp.
It was by now cold and dark and there was a general rush for the available rondavels, even though lights, hot water and cooking gas were not included in the tariff! Richard and Heather arrived in the Marriott Hotel and smugly looked at all of us and wondered what the fuss was about as they opened the door and moved up into their luxury accommodation on wheels! Some of the die-hard campers also insisted on braving the elements under canvas. The rest of us were delighted to enjoy the comforts of our rondavels and an early night was had by all.
Next morning a number of vehicles went to nearby Mt Moorosi village for diesel replenishment and after coffee and light breakfasts the troops (after various running repairs to some vehicles) set off on the last leg of our journey towards Ongeluksnek.
The road wound through a wooded valley, becoming open alluvial farmlands with fields of maize and millet carved out of every available space. Once again, friendly locals waving from the small villages, we climbed up a steep escarpment ending at an alpine lake where we paused for a coffee break and to admire the magnificent scenery. Healthy looking sheep and angora goats were herded past us. A short distance further on along an exposed rocky rutted track stood the Lesotho Border Post. (literally a solitary fence post standing on a bleak crest) before the road dipped down towards Ongeluksnek. Passport formalities are not big here!
The Ongeluksnek Pas was as Ronnie and Gary P had predicted – very steep, loose and rocky but with their expert guidance all made it down to the police post without incident. It was very apparent that if there was any moisture whatsoever in those parts, this pass would be near impossible!
The convoy assembled at the SAP Ongeluksnek Border Post and passport formalities were completed and we continued to the overnight camp at the base of the valley. A number of us elected to continue our journey home as time permitted and final greetings were exchanged. Once again a very enjoyable and interesting adventure. Thank you to everyone for making it a special weekend and keeping it safe.
Many thanks to Gary P and Ronnie. And a special mention to Darryl – always a great man to have along with his mechanical skills! And to Gary B, a big thank you too for being the ever-reliable steady sweeper at the rear of the column.
We look forward to many more trips with the Midlands 4x4 Club.